Los Gatos

Today was my best day so far in Buenos Aires. Not so much for what I did, but my state of mind. I feel peaceful and happy. I left Mariano´s apartment yesterday for my current hostel, which is in the neighborhood called Palermo. It´s more residential here, and it´s famous for having tons of parks. I´ve really enjoyed myself so far in Palermo, because I´ve been able to retreat to a bit of greenery.
I began my day today by going to the Jardín Botánico (Botanical Garden), which is in the heart of Palermo. There were spots in the center of this garden that were so peaceful, and so tranquil, that you could actally hear birds chirping and insects humming. You´d forget you were in the middle of such a chaotic city. There were tons of huge trees, such that the air inside the park was actually clean and fresh smelling, unlike the smog and pollution that permeates the rest of the city. There were beautiful flowers, and cacti. But the most interesting thing was that the garden is home to a huge pack of ferral cats! They were everywhere; under park benches, walking the paths, hiding in the bushes. It was impossible to look in one direction and not see a cat. But they were so peaceful, there was something very zen about their presence. They definitely were partly responsible for the tranquil feel of the garden. And of course I took a million pictures of them; I suppose I am destined to be a crazy cat lady some day. I didn´t want to leave, the garden was truly like paradise.
While I was sitting in the park I saw a girl get her bike stolen. I think she was standing by it or something and he must have walked by and taken off with it. She chased after him screaming, ¨Polícia! Polícia!¨ Ay... The men in this town are strange. Last night, when I was buying a clove of garlic from the verduria down on the street, the man who was helping me asked (in spanish of course), ¨Anything more?¨ and I said no, that´s it, and then he said, ¨A kiss?¨ and leaned in and tried to kiss me. I leaned way back, I guess my schock was really apparent on my face because he started laughing, and then went to ring me up. There was nothing threatening about it, mostly playful, but it´s still a different manner than I´ve ever experienced men behaving. In fact, sometimes it´s kind of funny. You´ll be walking by and they say something like, ¨Ay mami, salud!¨ when they are face to face with you. It´s very forward, in a way that I think American men would be too shy to behave.
Other than that, the last few days have gone quite well. I´ve gone to a Tango show, and seen the Buenos Aires modern art museum (Latin American art is amazing!). I´ve eaten tons of good food, including an amazing pumpkin salad today. I´m starting to become familiar with the city so I no longer feel nearly as lost when taking the subway or the bus somewhere. After a week, I´m pretty comfortable here. The only vestige of homesickness I´ve experienced is really missing Alex. Other than that, I´m really enjoying this. There´s an incredible freedom in being able to travel alone and do whatever you fancy for 4.5 months.
Tonight I will take it easy as I am going to go to Colonia tomorrow. It´s a port town on the Uruguan side of the Rio Del Plata, it only takes about an hour and a half to get there. They say it makes a good day trip. Other than that, I am toying with the idea of heading up north to Puerto Iguazú in a week or so, then making my way out west after that. There is much to see in this country besides tall buildings or beautiful parks, albeit ones filled with cats!